Cong hvoche shang yyaowangp Taibr Shan, gishihg neanlai you haaoxie cih l, meeicih hiangki "Kongt Zi dengz dongl shan erw xiao Lub, dengz Taibr Shan erw xiao tian xia" na juk hua lai, jiu joeder guoz erw bu dengz, xiangr s qiand xia youjiub d wwenhuad choantongy yi biy zhaij shiwde. Duml Furt d yuaanwangp:
"hui dang lings jue dingp, yi lanp zhongr shan xiao", w y yiyang you, xixz huw llaiqu congcongx, meeicih dou dangmian cuooguoz l.
Errjinh queeshib yao dengz Taibr Shan l, pianpianr tiangong bu zuoomeib, xia ki yus lai, xixiliilii, bu xiangr luo zai diishang, daor xiangr luo zai xinli. Tian s huih d, xin s chen d. Women yuey hao l qingchenh chufa, ren qibz l, yus que yueq xia yueq da. Deng tianqingh ma? Xiang z zye miaaomangs d "deng" ziy, xianb s biemenx. Panp dao sriyi dian ban zhongj, tianse zhuan bai, w buyouw hank l yi juk: "zou bak!" daiidong neanqingrren, kuad ki beibaoy, singzyibbobbo, chao Dait Zongx Fangl chufa l.
S yanh s wus, women biaanrenk buqings, zhiw jianp huimmengmmeng yipian, ba laaoda yi zuom gaoshan, syangsyangsiasia, guoy l yige yyanshib. Guvlao d Taibr Shan yueefa xianh der cuiweitr l. Women cai guoz Dait Zongx Fangl, zyentian d hooushengk jiu ba women xiyinz dao Huf Shan shvikul d daabal qanmian. Qih gup daashui, cong shvikul d qaokongt yuez chu, fangvfurf qih fuyd sxanguang hoangjinyd, zhib pu siaqu, pengt z lnlintx d luaanshit, jiki yipian xvebai shvizhut, tuop xiany yibanb, sa zai hoixuans d shvimian. Zyeli ziaozuo Qeuzai Wans: juushuo qiufl zaaoyih bei Liol Dongt Bin dus syangtian l, kevshi wangp guooqu, tiaoozhiqt fanteng, xiangr youh hoidao l guuju.
Women raooguoz Huf Shan, zhanz dao bal qiao shang, yibian s pngjingb d hhushui, yingz z xefengxiiyuv, lanvyyangyyang drishi yux buz buqian, yibian que yin’evcyizya, sirx you qianjunwaanmav, duop zai kilib d hoangjinyd divxia. Hoangjinyd s fangbianw d bivyukx, qqishib s yi fuyd xiishay, hu z yi fuyd mmeiyou jingweiyx d jingzhizd ttu’anm, touumingh d bbaishay qingqingb ya z touumingh d mivhuang huaweny. --yevxu driyou zhinio ccaineng zhiyf chu zyezhongc guiqib d gingse.
Yus da kilai l, women guaid jin Wwangmur Miaol hou d Qih Zhen Cixt. Zyeli goongfengd z qih zun suuxiangr, zyengmian dangzhong s Liol Dongt Bin, liiangpang s tade ppengyour Tiieguaid Lim h Hew xiangur, dongxil liiangce s tade si g dirzi, svoyiw ziaozuo Qih Zhen Cixt. Liol Dongt Bin h tade liang weir ppengyour daor y hai baale, zhanz zai kanx li d liang g hiaotongr h liiushum jingc duiimian d laaoren, srizai s sxaojianp d choanshenx zh zuo. Yibanb miaooyul d suuxiangr, wangvwangz bushi pngbanm, ziushi guaiidank, zaooxingt ouvery meib d, youh bu xiangr zhonggguorren, gen bushang zye weir laaoren zyeyang bizhen, qinqie. Wwuming d diaosuujia dui neanlingp h miaanmaor d chayiib you hen shenb d reenshik, xngxiangw ccaihui zyeyang xuvxuvrrusheng. Bushi neanqingrren ttixingxs w gai zou l, w hhaihui xinshangt siaqu d.
Women llaidao yuvdi, zou shang dengshan d zyenglu, yilianz chuanguoz san zuom srifangl: Yi Tianmenm, Kongt Zi Denglinr Chul h Tianjielt. Shui shengk luo zai women houumian, xongweirr d hong menm ba shan dangvzhur. Zou chu chang mmendongt, huoorrankailangv, shan youh dao l women genqian. Ren craoshang zou, shui craoxia liu, liu jin Huf Shan shvikul d Zhong Xisx peid women, yizhib peid dao Erh Tian Menm. Xoanyat llengcengt, srifengy dididada, qoanshui h yuvshui huns zai yiki, shun z xepot, liu jin shanjiansx, juanjuans d shvishengk biaancheng honghongkk d lleimingk. Yoousrihou feng guoz yun kai, zai divxia waangjianp Nanl Tianmenm, yingvyingvcyuocyuo, songvlip shantou, haaoxiangr bing bu hen yuanz; jiny Sribah Pan fangvfurf yi tiao huihbai da mangf, ppufuzp zai shanxiat dangzhong; geengduo d srihouh, wuyun siihed, ccengloanddiezyang dou cheng l shvimots shanshui. Tangzs guoz Zhong Xisx shviqians d diifang, zou bu taib yuanz, ziushi yoouming d Jing Shit Yutk, yipian daashui maanguoz yi mul daaxiao d yi g da shit pingtb, guangguang d shittou kej z yi bul 《Jingang Jing》, ziy you douq lai da, neanyue jiub l, da buufen dou rang shui mmoping l. hoidao zyenglu, yus bu zhidaol srenme srihouh yivjing zhur l, ren zou l yishen hanss, babuder ba yuvyiy tuop sialai, leangkuai leangkuai. Shuo qiaob y qiaob, women zyenghao zooujin yi zuom baaishum lin, yinsensen d, liangh l d tian youh biand hei l, haaoxiangr hoanghunh ttiqian dao l rrenjian, hanss budanw siaqu, hai joeder shenzi faleng, wwuguaiihu ren ba zyeli ziaozuo Baim Dongt. Women doousoud jingshenx, yiqis zoouguoz Hhutian Geml, dengz shang Huang Xiants Lingt, faxian shashit qoanshi cyihuang yyanpse, mngbai Zhong Xisx d shui wei srenme huang l.
Kaod zhur Erh Tian Menm d srifangl, xiangl siisiali tiaoowangp, w youh s jiao’ao, youh s danxin. Jiao’ao w yivjing zou l yiban d shanlu, danxin ziigi zou buliaow lingw yiban d shanlu. Yun boc l, wus youh syanglai. Women xiexiekx zoouzou, zoouzou xiexiekx, rrujinh yivjing s siawuhz si dian duo l. Kuunnan siihuw bing bu conzai, yan miaanqian s yi duanw pngtantp d siapot tuvlu, neanqingrren tiaootiaoz beengbeng, zou l siaqu, w y xiangr neanqingb l yiyang, yooushuoyoousiao, gen zai tamen houtou.
Women zai buzhibujoe zhong, cong siapot lu zhvandao syangpot lu, shanshiq doouqiaotd, syangshengd d podu yueellaiyuee da. Lu yizhib s kuanb zhengd d, driyou tand chu shenzi d srihouh, cai zhidaol ziigi zhanz zai shenbukevcee d shangous bian, mngmingh you shviliu, que ting bujianp shvishengk. Yangr kitou lai chao xil wangp, baankong gua z yi tiao liang chiz lai kuanb d bai daizi, soifeng baaidong, xiang couujinz l kan, gel z leaokuob d shangous, zou bu guooqu. Women zyengzai zaanbujoekoou, faxian yivjing llaidao yi zuom sriqiao genqian, ziigi hai bu qingchum s zenvme yihoisyi, xiiyus davshis l honshen syangxia. Yoanlai women yuudao lingw yi leiixingt d feipusb, gintiet qiao hou, women bu difangj, jihuw h taw zhuangq g zyengzhaow. Shvimian you liang san zhangz kuanb, liz di bugao, fachu yisieqianliv d llonghuf shengweij, daq z qiao xia qqixngguaiizyuang d shittou, kooumos penk d laaoyuanz. cong zye srihouh ki, shanjiansx youh cong zvoce zhuan dao youuce, shvishengk congcongs, gen women gen dao Nnantian Menm.
Guoz l Yonbuz Qiao, women kaishiry zou shang pandengz Taibr Shan drufengt d ppandaol. Nnantian Menm yinggai jinz l, yyouyu shanxiat hoihuant quzhed, ffan’erw wangp bujianp l. Yevhuac yevcao, srenme xngzhuangb y you, srenme yyanse y you, aiaaigigi, qianqianmangvmangv, yaooba cranyants d shanshit zhuangbandd kilai. Lianz w shang l yidian suiishuh d ren, y xue hiaohairzi, qiaq l yi ba, zridao huaduoc h yeczi quan nianc l, cai dai z baooqiank d xinqing, diu zai shanjiansx li, sui shui piaoqu. Daanshi ba ren d xinlingx daiidao yi zhongc cronggao d zingjiel d, que s naaxie "xik cui xias erw yaox jiaojx" d songshum. Tawmen bupa shangao, ba genm zad zai xoanyat joebil d xiifengy, shenzi niud d xiangr ppanlong zhumzi, zai baankong drankai zhiyec, xiangr s h koangfeng wwuyun zyengduoq tianri, youh xiangr s h qingfeng bbaiyun yyouxidy. Yooude songshum waangchuanqiushvi, bujianp ni lai, dduziw shang dao gaochul, xieb z shenzi zhangwangp.
Yooude songshum xiangr yi dingp moolioy da sans, zhiq kai l deng ni. Yooude songshum ziiddeqqilee, hianchu yi fub xiaosas d mmuyang. Buguanq zenvmeyaang, tawmen dou rang ni joeder tawmen s Taibr Shan d tianran d druren, shuiw shao l shuiw, dou xiangr bu yinggai shiwde. Wus zai dui songm shan d shanxiat piaolai piaoqu, tianse yanvkan hei jiang sialai. W bu zhidaol shang l duoshao srijiz, yi jiz youh yi jiz, s leequx yevshi kuvqux, haaoxiangr cong w you shengmingr yivlai ziuzai dengshan shiwde, maiz qanjiaoz, tuod houujiaoz, cai buguoz zou wanb manx sribah pan. W kaod zhur Shengxianrr Fangl, yangr kitou lai chao shang wangp, jiny sribah pan fangvfurf yi jiam chang tim, dad zai Nnantian Menm kou. W danvqiex l. Xinb qit d srijiz draizhaib d, ged buxia zhengd jiaoz. Guai buder Dongl Han d Ying Shaokc, zai 《Taibr Shan Fengshanxr Yir Jii》li, zyeyang xngrong: "yangr ship tian menm yaoty liaoz, ru cong xuet zhong ship tian, zhib shang qih li, laib qiw yangf changp weizy yizw, ming yueky huant daol, wangz wangz you bsuoy ke der erw dengz y, liang cong zher fudc jiaq qian ren xiangm qianf, hou ren jianp qian ren liozx dil, qian ren jianp hou ren dingp, ru huay zhongb leid ren yiwy, suo weikc mot xiongp nie shit mend tian zhiwy nan y." Yi weir laaodaaye, xieb z giaobuz, chuan huac yibanb, ce z shenzi, ganz dao women qiantou. Yi weir laaodaaneang, kuad z xiangdaiy, ginguanq jiaoz xiao, y wenvwenb dangdang, cong women shenbian guooqu. W xiangr Ying Shaokc shuo d naayang, "mu ship erw jiaoz bu sui", zhuazhur tie ffushou, jiuqc laom neanqingrren, zou shihg gih buz, xiekx yi kou qis, zhongyu zai siawuhz 7 dian zhongj, shang dao Nnantian Menm.
Xin hai zai tiaoz, tuip hai zai doud, ren daoodil hhaishi syanglai l. Dibtou wangp z xinb zhengd rran’erw chang jim l d ppandaol, w qqiguai ziigi juran y neng syanglai. W zou zai tianjiez shang, qingsongb yyukuai, xiangr yi g mmeishix ren yiyang. Yi paid leusum d hiaodianl, mmeiyou mnghaok, driyou biaojii, yooude mmenkou gua z yi zhiw zyaolicf, yooude chuangkou fangd z yi dui yingwufn, yooude s yi genm baangchuim, yooude s yi tiao jinj niu, diifang kuanchangl d baid z crazhuo, diifang draixiao d zriyou kaanggih, hou qiangl jiny tiet z zhengrongt d shanshit, qian lian zyengdui z waanzhangz d shenyuanss. Bie cheng yigem d hhaiyou naaxie shittou. Guh shiren xngrong Taibr Shan, shuo "taibr shan yants yants", zyujiej ren gaoosuk ni: yants yants, jishit maor. Ddiquet zyeyang, shandingp yueefa gei ni zyezhongc ganvjuex. Yooude shittou xiangr leanhuac banc, yooude xiangr daaxiangw tou, yooude xiangr laaoren, yooude xiangr woohuf, yooude cuooluo cheng qiao, yooude wuulip ru zhum, yooude ceeshen tand hais, yooude nuumu xiangxiangl. Yooude srenme y buxiangr, heihuhu d, yidong budong, duvzhur nide quulu. Neanyue jiub, choanshuo duo, Dengfengq Tai rang ni hiangxiangw diiwang baidg shan d syengkuang, yige guangtutu d diifang hui you yi kuait srijiet, drimingh s "Kongt Zi xiao tian xia chul". Yooude shanchis ziaozuo xistou pen, juushuo yuunio wangvchangw zai zyeli xis guoz ttoufa; yooude shandongt ziaozuo Bbaiyun Dongt, choanshuo guooqu wangz wai maod bbaiyun, rrujinh bu maod bbaiyun l, bbaiyun zai shanli yiran yyoulai yyouqu. Qnglangh d tian, ni zyengzai xinshangt "Qibz Lub qingc weiw liaow", huran yi zhenl feng lai, "dangc xiongp sheng cengm yun", zhvansyunjian, bianw xiangr Songl Zh Wenk zai 《Guiiyangh san ri syuhuaix》li shuo ki d naayang, "yonhais si mmangmangs". S yun ma? Ttoushang mngmingh lingw you yun zai. Kaanyangzi s jixues, yaoobu y s meanxuys duit, gaogao didib, leanxuubuduan, yizhib ba tianbian biaancheng haaibian. Yyushi yyangguang lueeguoz, yonhais d yinj taos xiangr dujj l jinj, youh xiangr zhaow l huoh, shaocheng huijinhh, buzhi quuxiangl, luuchu daadi d miaanmu. Liang tiao bbaixiany, ququzrezre, s Lais Hes, s Wenss Hes. Yi g heidianzi zai biilioy d ttu’anm zhongjian yyidong, fangvfurf mmayif, youh maod yi lioys qingyanh. Ni zyengzai drisxouhuaagiao, shuocrangdaoodvan, xuhuanh h zhenxiangw yishih dou zai wus li xiaoshid.
Women mmeiyou kan dao rrichu d qqijingh. Na yao zai qiugaoqiishvang d srihouh. Buguoz women y you ziigi d dduder zh lex: women zai yus zhong kan dao d puubuy, liang tian yivhou siashan, yivjing bu naayang zyuanglib l. Xiao puubuy bujianp, da puubuy biand xiao l. Women yansb z Xil Xisx, fanshanyueelingv, chuanguoz gvoxiangc pubipz d pngguom yuanll, zai Heilong Tanss fuujinz daiz l laaobaantian. Bushi siawuhz yao ganz hvoche d hua, women hhaihui daiz siaqu d. Shanshiq h shvishiq zai zyeli bbieshi yizhongc ggediaok, biaanhuad erw youh hhexiekh.
Shan mmeiyou shui, rrutong ren mmeiyou yanvjingp, siihuw shao l lngxingx. Women ganvyu zai yus zhong dengz Taibr Shan, kan dao yooushengk yooushiq d feiquans leubuy, qingppendaayuv d srihouh, ciahao youh zai Douq Mur Gongl dvoguoz, yilu xing lai, you yus qux erw wu lnlis zh ku, ziiran y jiu ggewai ganvdao yiixingq aangran.
雨中登泰山 李健吾
從火車上遙望泰山，幾十年來有好些次了，每次想起“孔子登東山而小魯，登泰山而小天下”那句話來，就覺得過而不登，像是欠下悠久的文化傳統壹筆債似的。杜甫的願望：
“會當淩絕頂，壹覽眾山小”，我也壹樣有，惜乎來去匆匆，每次都當面錯過了。
而今確實要登泰山了，偏偏天公不作美，下起雨來，淅淅瀝瀝，不像落在地上，倒像落在心裏。天是灰的，心是沈的。我們約好了清晨出發，人齊了，雨卻越下越大。等天晴嗎？想著這渺茫的“等”字，先是憋悶。盼到十壹點半鐘，天色轉白，我不由喊了壹句：“走吧！”帶動年輕人，挎起背包，興致勃勃，朝岱宗坊出發了。
是煙是霧，我們辨認不清，只見灰蒙蒙壹片，把老大壹座高山，上上下下，裹了壹個嚴實。古老的泰山越發顯得崔嵬了。我們才過岱宗坊，震天的吼聲就把我們吸引到虎山水庫的大壩前面。七股大水，從水庫的橋孔躍出，仿佛七幅閃光黃錦，直鋪下去，碰著嶙嶙的亂石，激起壹片雪白水珠，脫線壹般，撒在洄漩的水面。這裏叫作虬在灣：據說虬早已被呂洞賓渡上天了，可是望過去，跳擲翻騰，像又回到了故居。
我們繞過虎山，站到壩橋上，壹邊是平靜的湖水，迎著斜風細雨，懶洋洋只是欲步不前，壹邊卻喑惡叱咤，似有千軍萬馬，躲在綺麗的黃錦底下。黃錦是方便的比喻，其實是壹幅細紗，護著壹幅沒有經緯的精致圖案，透明的白紗輕輕壓著透明的米黃花紋。——也許只有織女才能織出這種瑰奇的景色。
雨大起來了，我們拐進王母廟後的七真祠。這裏供奉著七尊塑像，正面當中是呂洞賓，兩旁是他的朋友鐵拐李和何仙姑，東西兩側是他的四個弟子，所以叫作七真祠。呂洞賓和他的兩位朋友倒也還罷了，站在龕裏的兩個小童和柳樹精對面的老人，實在是少見的傳神之作。壹般廟宇的塑像，往往不是平板，就是怪誕，造型偶爾美的，又不像中國人，跟不上這位老人這樣逼真、親切。無名的雕塑家對年齡和面貌的差異有很深的認識，形象才會這樣栩栩如生。不是年輕人提醒我該走了，我還會欣賞下去的。
我們來到雨地，走上登山的正路，壹連穿過三座石坊：壹天門、孔子登臨處和天階。水聲落在我們後面，雄偉的紅門把山擋住。走出長門洞，豁然開朗，山又到了我們跟前。人朝上走，水朝下流，流進虎山水庫的中溪陪我們，壹直陪到二天門。懸崖崚嶒，石縫滴滴噠噠，泉水和雨水混在壹起，順著斜坡，流進山澗，涓涓的水聲變成訇訇的雷鳴。有時候風過雲開，在底下望見南天門，影影綽綽，聳立山頭，好像並不很遠；緊十八盤仿佛壹條灰白大蟒，匍匐在山峽當中；更多的時候，烏雲四合，層巒疊嶂都成了水墨山水。蹚過中溪水淺的地方，走不太遠，就是有名的經石峪，壹片大水漫過壹畝大小的壹個大石坪，光光的石頭刻著壹部《金剛經》，字有鬥來大，年月久了，大部分都讓水磨平了。回到正路，雨不知道什麽時候已經住了，人走了壹身汗，巴不得把雨衣脫下來，涼快涼快。說巧也巧，我們正好走進壹座柏樹林，陰森森的，亮了的天又變黑了，好像黃昏提前到了人間，汗不但下去，還覺得身子發冷，無怪乎人把這裏叫作柏洞。我們抖擻精神，壹氣走過壺天閣，登上黃峴嶺，發現沙石全是赤黃顏色，明白中溪的水為什麽黃了。
靠住二天門的石坊，向四下裏眺望，我又是驕傲，又是擔心。驕傲我已經走了壹半的山路，擔心自己走不了另壹半的山路。雲薄了，霧又上來。我們歇歇走走，走走歇歇，如今已經是下午四點多了。困難似乎並不存在，眼面前是壹段平坦的下坡土路，年輕人跳跳蹦蹦，走了下去，我也像年輕了壹樣，有說有笑，跟在他們後頭。
我們在不知不覺中，從下坡路轉到上坡路，山勢陡峭，上升的坡度越來越大。路壹直是寬整的，只有探出身子的時候，才知道自己站在深不可測的山溝邊，明明有水流，卻聽不見水聲。仰起頭來朝西望，半空掛著壹條兩尺來寬的白帶子，隨風擺動，想湊近了看，隔著遼闊的山溝，走不過去。我們正在贊不絕口，發現已經來到壹座石橋跟前，自己還不清楚是怎麽壹回事，細雨打濕了渾身上下。原來我們遇到另壹類型的飛瀑，緊貼橋後，我們不提防，幾乎和它撞個正著。水面有兩三丈寬，離地不高，發出壹瀉千裏的龍虎聲威，打著橋下奇形怪狀的石頭，口沫噴的老遠。從這時候起，山澗又從左側轉到右側，水聲淙淙，跟我們跟到南天門。
過了雲步橋，我們開始走上攀登泰山主峰的盤道。南天門應該近了，由於山峽回環曲折，反而望不見了。野花野草，什麽形狀也有，什麽顏色也有，挨挨擠擠，芊芊莽莽，要把巉巖的山石裝扮起來。連我上了壹點歲數的人，也學小孩子，掐了壹把，直到花朵和葉子全蔫了，才帶著抱歉的心情，丟在山澗裏，隨水漂去。但是把人的心靈帶到壹種崇高的境界的，卻是那些“吸翠霞而夭矯”的松樹。它們不怕山高，把根紮在懸崖絕壁的隙縫，身子扭的像盤龍柱子，在半空展開枝葉，像是和狂風烏雲爭奪天日，又像是和清風白雲遊戲。有的松樹望穿秋水，不見妳來，獨自上到高處，斜著身子張望。
有的松樹像壹頂墨綠大傘，支開了等妳。有的松樹自得其樂，顯出壹副瀟灑的模樣。不管怎麽樣，它們都讓妳覺得它們是泰山的天然的主人，誰少了誰，都像不應該似的。霧在對松山的山峽飄來飄去，天色眼看黑將下來。我不知道上了多少石級，壹級又壹級，是樂趣也是苦趣，好像從我有生命以來就在登山似的，邁前腳，拖後腳，才不過走完慢十八盤。我靠住升仙坊，仰起頭來朝上望，緊十八盤仿佛壹架長梯，搭在南天門口。我膽怯了。新砌的石級窄窄的，擱不下整腳。怪不得東漢的應劭，在《泰山封禪儀記》裏，這樣形容：“仰視天門窔遼，如從穴中視天，直上七裏，賴其羊腸逶迤，名曰環道，往往有絙索可得而登也，兩從者扶挾前人相牽，後人見前人履底，前人見後人頂，如畫重累人矣，所謂磨胸捏石捫天之難也。”壹位老大爺，斜著腳步，穿花壹般，側著身子，趕到我們前頭。壹位老大娘，挎著香袋，盡管腳小，也穩穩當當，從我們身邊過去。我像應劭說的那樣，“目視而腳不隨”，抓住鐵扶手，揪牢年輕人，走十幾步，歇壹口氣，終於在下午七點鐘，上到南天門。
心還在跳，腿還在抖，人到底還是上來了。低頭望著新整然而長極了的盤道，我奇怪自己居然也能上來。我走在天街上，輕松愉快，像壹個沒事人壹樣。壹排留宿的小店，沒有名號，只有標記，有的門口掛著壹只笊籬，有的窗口放著壹對鸚鵡，有的是壹根棒槌，有的是壹條金牛，地方寬敞的擺著茶桌，地方窄小的只有炕幾，後墻緊貼著崢嶸的山石，前臉正對著萬丈的深淵。別成壹格的還有那些石頭。古詩人形容泰山，說“泰山巖巖”，註解人告訴妳：巖巖，積石貌。的確這樣，山頂越發給妳這種感覺。有的石頭像蓮花瓣，有的像大象頭，有的像老人，有的像臥虎，有的錯落成橋，有的兀立如柱，有的側身探海，有的怒目相向。有的什麽也不像，黑忽忽的，壹動不動，堵住妳的去路。年月久，傳說多，登封臺讓妳想象帝王拜山的盛況，壹個光禿禿的地方會有壹塊石碣，指明是“孔子小天下處”。有的山池叫作洗頭盆，據說玉女往常在這裏洗過頭發；有的山洞叫作白雲洞，傳說過去往外冒白雲，如今不冒白雲了，白雲在山裏依然遊來遊去。晴朗的天，妳正在欣賞“齊魯青未了”，忽然壹陣風來，“蕩胸生層雲”，轉瞬間，便像宋之問在《桂陽三日述懷》裏說起的那樣，“雲海四茫茫”。是雲嗎？頭上明明另有雲在。看樣子是積雪，要不也是棉絮堆，高高低低，連續不斷，壹直把天邊變成海邊。於是陽光掠過，雲海的銀濤像鍍了金，又像著了火，燒成灰燼，不知去向，露出大地的面目。兩條白線，曲曲折折，是瀨河，是汶河。壹個黑點子在碧綠的圖案中間移動，仿佛螞蟻，又冒壹縷青煙。妳正在指手畫腳，說長道短，虛象和真象壹時都在霧裏消失。
我們沒有看到日出的奇景。那要在秋高氣爽的時候。不過我們也有自己的獨得之樂：我們在雨中看到的瀑布，兩天以後下山，已經不那樣壯麗了。小瀑布不見，大瀑布變小了。我們沿著西溪，翻山越嶺，穿過果香撲鼻的蘋果園，在黑龍潭附近待了老半天。不是下午要趕火車的話，我們還會待下去的。山勢和水勢在這裏別是壹種格調，變化而又和諧。
山沒有水，如同人沒有眼睛，似乎少了靈性。我們敢於在雨中登泰山，看到有聲有勢的飛泉流布，傾盆大雨的時候，恰好又在鬥母宮躲過，壹路行來，有雨趣而無淋漓之苦，自然也就格外感到意興盎然。